Posts tagged "menswear"
Today an article was published discussing the “Oral History of Menswear Blogging and Street Style” the article is interesting but it’s a bit pretentious and a tad narrow minded. The article while shedding light on an arena that is growing every day fails to open up past one single aesthetic, which is simply referred to as “menswear”.
Menswear relates to mens clothing, mens fashion and not just one aesthetic. At the end of the day the guy in the corduroy double breasted blazer, chambray shirt and camo khakis is wearing menswear just as is the guy who’s wearing a leather jacket, hoodie and jeans, and so is the guy in the two button black suit, white shirt and black tie. Thats all menswear. Not just the now so in vogue “heritage” look, based upon “quality” we’re told. Mean while its being made and sold in mass by brands such as J.Crew and others who out source their production to China and similar countries. The guys into the heritage idea are the guys who aren’t buying jeans from Uniqlo, or JCrew but are spending the money on Sugar Canes, Pure Blue Japans, Iron Heart’s etc, jeans produced in small batches by artisan heritage denim factories in Japan and that’s damn cool.
Menswear was exciting in the early part of the 2000’s Helmut Lang, Heidi Slimane, Martin Margiela were all still designing and creating beautiful menswear. Design was inspired and not stale, not just reaching for something so simple, so safe, so accepted as prep/heritage. There was a sense of energy to so much of what was coming out, young designers like Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Takahiro Miyashita, and more were getting coverage. There was design happening and being celebrated. The press wasn’t so enamored by something so simple, and so surface.
Guys were buying clothes and creating individualistic looks with character even if they weren’t spending top dollar on designer clothing. Streetwear was gaining momentum and brought with it a unique, edgy and exciting aspect to traditional menswear. Guys we’re figuring out their own look and weren’t trying to just fit to one idea. Now so many guys who are into fashion are hard to tell apart from guys who’s girlfriends shop for them at the local Abercrombie or Macy’s. It’s not about a dark avant garde aesthetic vs a classic American prep (or blue collar sometimes combined) aesthetic, it’s about being an individual. It’s about being open minded, its about finding your self, its about being able to really identify with something before you buy it and blog about it. What’s so unique and amazing about the same plaid shirt that is being produced at a 10,000 piece volume for 250 storefronts world wide? How do you connect with it?
It’s just too bad so many of the amazing designers out there making menswear that is circle peg to the square hole of what is now popular and celebrated. The overwhelming support and coverage of one aspect of menswear kind of sucks. It’s white washing a whole community of designers out there from other parts of the world inspired by something other than New England. I understand these things go in cycles and what not but its just astounding how so much attention is focused on this one element of menswear. Maybe I need to get some pop color socks and I’ll understand a bit better.
rawkblog asked: Hi, Joseph -- I wrote the menswear blogging article. It wasn't an article about menswear trends, per se, but an article about the blogosphere that's developed around them. That's happened in the last few years, and I'm sure you'd find it hard to argue that it's been centered around heritage and now Italian suiting. You'll note the article does cover a range of menswear voices -- it has WIWT bloggers and classicists as well as trend-watchers. Thanks for the feedback!
Hi David -
I really appreciate you taking the time to both read and respond to my post in reference to your article on GQ.com. I realize the article is about the blogosphere thats developed around menswear trends. In my post I was speaking of menswear trends that where/are still happening that aren’t receiving any coverage via any of the bloggers used in the article.
I just still feel there is so much more out there that is menswear that is so strong, so well designed, so well made, and so under appreciated by the new blitz of “menswear” So much so easily dismissed it’s just too bad. It’s quite difficult for me to not argue that its based around heritage when so many faces and names involved favor/celebrate that look.
There is room for more than one aesthetic in menswear blogging and streetstyle. Forums like superfuture prove that every day, for years now. It’s also not as polarizing as styleforum (heritage) or stylezeitgeist(avantgarde). It’s a more well rounded forum with denim guys/heritage guys/avant garde guys/streetwear guys. Thousands of members on there all playing apart in menswear some way and all embracing different aesthetics. Raf Simons sweater with Nike Frees or Iron Hearts with Common Projects, and a J.Crew shirt etc. I also see the great variety in menswear when flipping through street style shots from Men’s Non No, Men’s Fudge both of Japan but capturing images regularly in New York, London, Paris, Tokyo, etc.
At the end of the day we’re all entitled to our opinions, and our views. I for one would just like to see a more well rounded menswear outlook provided by such a reputable source such as GQ. Everyday I see interesting and cool menswear out on the street and on the internet, it’s really so much more than this one aesthetic. I appreciate the work that went into your article, your taking time to read my post, and your response.